Early Bronco Radiator Relocation

I moved my radiator forward. The basic idea I started with was to center the radiator in the core support, cheating as far forward away from the fan blades as possible without having to really modify the stock front grill mount. This mod took me from about 1-inch to 3/4-inch between the fan and rad to about 3-inches to 3.5-inches, depending where you measure. For background info, I have a serpentine belt system on a 5.0l Mustang engine (91 Mustang). I run a Flex-a-Lite fan, and a custom-length spacer that pushes the fan about 3/4-inch away from the serp belt's real estate. I use hood pins, so the stock hood latch assembly is not an issue. I also have a 3-inch body lift. My radiator is from Tom's Bronco Parts. The radiator support brackets I used are also from Tom's, but they are chopped up and welded on a little. I have a stock fan shroud. I've had a cobbled-together radiator mount system for long enough that I forget how the stock system was arranged. I sorta remember that the leading edge of the radiator was behind the core support. But, since I no longer run that engine, or a stock fan, I was free to do what worked. I also don't mind cutting up my Bronco, which is a legitimate concern for many EB owners. I cut to fit. The main core support bracket on the Bronco grill mounts with three bolts, and angles downward to where it is attached to the grill. The leading edge of the radiator, as it moves forward, runs into the bracket that supports the grill. That is the only real interference to address. But, it really depends on what radiator you have and how it is built, I reckon, as to where the interference comes into play. If you run the stock hood latch, I don't think this will work very well. I think the only tools I used were a welder, a pneumatic body saw, and a bandsaw. A Sawzall-type tool or chop say would suffice. That does not count the measuring tape and whatnot. This does not have to be precision work, but staying straight and true makes it easier. Use what you have, or go buy a new toy.

Image 1 The lower part of the assembly uses a bar attached to frame-mounted brackets. Stock-type radiator brackets are secured to rectangular brackets that provide height for the entire assembly.	Image 2 Call it a reference picture. I'm going to miss the tool shelf that this radiator doubled as when it was not centered under the core support. Don't mind the wires to the right, they are just there because I don't know where they are supposed to be.
Image 3 The bracket that secures the grill to the core support limits how high you can mount the radiator, as well as how far forward. The leading edge of my particular radiator had a raised lip. I ground it down so I could cheat a little farther forward and a little higher. This shot gives a good idea of how the radiator is positioned in relation to the core support.	Image 4 The rectangular mount is made from 1-inch by 3-inch x 3/16th-inch rectangular tube. It was cut down to 1 3/4-inches tall. The radiator mount is from Tom's Bronco Parts. The frame mounted bracket is 1.5-inch by 1.5-inch by 3/16th angle steel.
Image5 The radiator cap is positioned just a little past halfway through the front of the core support. To add coolant, I have to remove the two upper brackets and the radiator will lean back, allowing access to the filler cap.	Image 6 A tab welded on top of the radiator bracket is secured to the top lip of the core support. PS. Don't be impatient and try to put everything back together before the paint dries, or the primer will show.
Image 7 The frame mounted bracket is 1.5-inch by 1.5-inch by 3/16th angle steel. The bar going across is home center style black steel plumbing pipe. I used 3/4-inch pipe. I welded a 3/4-inch bolt to each end of the pipe. A 3/4-inch bolt passes through the bracket into the nut on the end of the pipe.	Image 8 I joined the two side of the lower core support back together with a 1-inch by 1-inch rectangular tube.
Image 9 My power steering cooler is zip tied to the lower bar. We'll see how that works out. I'm a little concerned that the zip ties will dig into the soft aluminum.	Image 10 I'm not going to be surprised if I start to run hot, because the fan is not tucked into the shroud very well any longer. I may have to extend the shroud a few inches.