SEFI Install in a 70'
Bronco, plus other misc info passed on to me from the
Early Bronco Mailing List.
OK it
needs a little organizing and cleaning up, but doesnt
it still look PRETTY!
WHY;
I added sefi to my bronco
because I was having alot of problems with the
4-barrel flooding in exteme angles, when you least
want your vehicle to die. I enjoy the excitement of
4wheeling, but that was a little too much! Sure you
might gain a couple of miles per gallon, but it will
take a lifetime to make up for the cost of
installation. And maybe the motor will last longer,
because of proper fuel mixture at all altitudes. Then
ther is the Major WOW factor, thats a biggie.
In the begining it may seem
over whelming, but I assure you it's pretty easy. Not
to mention it's a great learning experience. Always
pays to know your vehicle! I should mention that I
don't have a body lift.
WARNING! The weak of heart, should not look at
this next photo!
To start off with, I should let
you know where I'm coming from. I had a 95 mustang gt
5.0L HO motor already installed. It was a crate motor
that I had ordered from Ford Motor Sport 2.5 years
earlier, now I just wanted to add SEFI.
For those of you that want to
add sefi to your old 302; FMS also used to sell a
engine harness for the 302 firing order, but they
discontinued it because the O2 sensors were reading
the wrong cylinders and leaning and riching at the
wrong locations. Several people have said this was a
bunch of smoke, and just changed the locations of the
injector pins at the plug. And have had no problems.
Remember that I have a smog
exempt vehicle!
Lets
get busy!
PARTS;
I purchased my upper stuff from
the corral, but I wouldn't recommend it unless that
is all you need! Heres the problem; The mustang guy
will need all the little fittings, brackets, fuel
rail, distributor, and cables. These parts will ADD
UP bigtime! You are really better off paying $650 for
the high mileage motor and everything to run it!
Prices seem to run as high as $1300 depending on your
area. Just finding the 89-93 mustang, that hasnt been
stripped, will be the fun part. Call around, and
insist on doing most the removal yourself! This will
be a good learning experience, plus you'll have a
reference to go off of when you install.
If you elect to install the
5.0L HO motor here are some "need to
knows";
1. The Mustang Flexplate from
the automatic will work, if you have the torque
converter that measures 11 7/16" measured at the
bolt holes diagonally. These were in the 76-77
models, but many of the earlier ones have been
upgraded from the 10.5" pattern. It's a crap
shoot here! You have to have the 50 ounce imbalanced
flywheel/flexplate and Dampner. If you decide to use
your v-belt setup, just change everything from the
timing cover forward, and buy a 3 bolt dampner from
TOTAL PERFORMANCE (810)468-3673 for $160 delivered.
The 5.0L Mustang bell housing doesnt have a bolt hole
for the clutch lever, but there is a simple solution.
I'm sorry I dont have that information at this time.
2. Many are using the short
Mustang headers, but the clearance on the passenger
side is very tight. Also others have reported that
the driverside interfers with the clutch linkage???
My List;
www.corral.net:
Upper&lower stock mustang
intake with 19lb injectors, EGR spacer, Throttle
body(Idle speed control & throttle position
sensor), & MAF. Plus the guy sent me the rubber
tubing T.B.-MAF, & MAF-airbox. $225 plus
$50shipping. Great experience! COD ONLY! Great
resource for 5.0L info.
http://www.allmustang.com junkyard in AZ
(800)454-8387
Complete EEC-IV Dist., coil
& rubber boot, also sent wires.---$70. Fuel rails
& regulator w/ some line---$50. Throttle cable
& bracket---$35. Coolant tubes---$15. PCV, T for
upper intake PCV, & vacuum connector that screws
into upper intake---$20. A9P computer---$100.
Freight---$25. Dealt with Tom(sales), but talk to the
tech(Chris) that pulls the stuff also. What Tom
writes may not be exactly what Chris pulls!
Scootsdale
vehicle concepts AZ (602)998-8885
M-12071-c302 EFI
harness---$316.25 (This is not needed if you dont
mind purchasing a HELM wiring manual, and doing a
little tracing. Also you will have to judge the
quality of the used wiring available. DON'T PAY THE $700-$900 SOME OF
THE WIRING PLACES ARE ASKING FOR THEIR HARNESS!) M-12071-D302 Sensor/Relay
package---$128. M12071-E302 Engine harness---$126.90.
Freight---$7.00 Had everything in stock!
Local Ford
Dealer
e3az9e731a Vehicle speed
sensor(Any ford transmission)---$25.13. These guys
were useless w/o part #'s or specific application
info.. Me and other's have run with/without the VSS
and we can't tell the difference. I would only bother
with it if you have cruise control!
NAPA
Cable ties, 14 & 18 gauge
wire, New V-belt, 10071Heater hose---$10.49.
9812Heater hose---$13.69. Ford fuel filter---$10. PCV
filter---$4.29. Couple of plugs with pipe threads for
intake holes not used. Fittings for the 5/16"
fuel rails to barbs. 24' of steel tubing 3/8".
Fuel injection rubber tubing 3/8". 4' of vacuum
hose. ST404 Starter solenoid w/ diode---$14.--. If
you talk to the right guy, they can really help also.
PEP BOYS
Gaskets: 8384432--$3.20,
8384432--$5.32. Valve cover gasket--$12.19. Fuel
injection hose clamps(These are really good)---$2.49.
Borg-Warner fuel pump(86' F250 external 5.0L
pump)---$99.99,price checked with Autozone -$34.00 =
$65.99 + tax($70.77). Some shops wont price check any
longer! 8>( Don't expect much from these guys.
Misc.
Muffler shop: weld O2 bosses
onto vehicle---$36.44. Speedometer cable, Summit
racing: K&N air filter RU-3130 7"
conical---$34.45 delivered. Plus I sold my Duraspark
stuff, Holley 600cfm, & FMS intake at the CORRAL
for $300. The cannister purge system, and solenoid
are not necessary in non-smog applications. Just
thread the hole in the intake, and install a plug.
Lets start with the
fuel system;
I added a 23gal. tank with a
extra 3/8 line for the pickup. I wanted the pickup
back by the baffle, so I drilled a hole in the front
of the tank, just right of the original, at the side.
I ran a piece of bent 3/8 brake line down the side
and curved towards the middle. My local radiator shop
welded it in for free! Just the one weld at the
front. I did the external EFI fuel pump from a 86
F250, and I ran 3/8 steel tubing up and back, it
wasn't hard. I don't know if I like it, I'll have to
put rubber between pump/line. I think I should of
just ran rubber the hole way. Well, this will give me
something to do next year. Remember you only need the
expensive high pressure rubber efi line between the
pump and the fuel rails, the rest can be regular fuel
line. Here's how it turned out;
The fuel pump bracket, is my
old coil bracket. Make sure you keep the lines away
from any heat! The rubber lines where slid over the
pump and filter fittings, and clamped. I connected
the other end of the line to the fuel rail with
compression fittings and a little tephlon tape;
NOW FOR THE
ENGINE;
Remove the Duraspark ignition,
and Carb./intake. Remove throttle linkage, and valve
covers. Put lower mustang intake on, don't forget the
new gaskets. Install injectors, engine harness,
coolant tubes, rails, sensors (ECT & ACT), water
temp for gauge, plug(at rear on drivers side), and
nipple(at rear on pass. side, for EGR). Installed a
195 thermostat. Easiest to install this stuff with
intake off the vehicle. The water hoses for the
coolant tubes were; one hose was 3/4" with
90degree to 5/8", This was hooked to the heater
valve with another piece of 5/8" to heater. The
other hose was just a 5/8" with a 90degree bend,
It was hooked to upper tube and then ran to heater.
Pulled out the O2 sensor
harness, and guess what there were two. My lucky day,
two for the price of one? NOPE, One (BA) is for
automatics, Second(AA) is for Manuals. I have no idea
why, but they are different! I hooked the harness to
the installed O2 sensors, perfect! I am mounting the
O2 harness on the firewall as recommended.
Hooked up a jumper from the
battery to the fuel pump, WHAT A SWEET PUUURRR!
Hooked up pressure gauge to the schrader valve,
42PSI, I'm a happy man! One little leak, but it was a
simple fix. I strongly recommend the fuel injection
clamps, the regular clamps seem to cut into the hose.
One spot where I slipped 3" of rubber hose over
3/8"steel line and clamped, I had visions of
this exploding apart, what a imagination. I worry to
much!
The computer harness was
prepared earlier on the living room floor. All the
tape was removed from the brand new harness, this is
ugly! The only thing I left on the drivers side
fender was the coil, test plugs(2), and connector
31(FMS#). Connector 31 was removed, 8 wires were
present. Some of the wire colors even matched the
Bronco colors. The rest of the harness was routed
over the firewall. Plugged in the black/white
connectors to the engine harness and stuffed them
behind the intake with everything else!
I removed the gas pedal and
heated it up at the "dog leg", twisted it
90degrees so the ball on the end was facing back of
vehicle. Make sure the ball is still centered with
opening to the firewall. Ground off one side of ball
and punched it out. Drilled it 11/32, hack sawed a
notch from top down to hole. Chiseled the notch open
gently, to allow throttle cable to slip through and
snap in the plastic retainer into place, just like it
was OEM. Bolted the cable right to the pedal
assembly!
Mounted fuel pump block off
plate, sealed off passenger kick panel with piece of
aluminum, mounted computer onto kick panel with metal
straps and two sided foam tape for a little cushion.
Cut hole in firewall 2 7/8"x1 1/4" inserted
eec-iv plug and wrestled the groumet into place.
Replaced the old starter selonoid with the NAPA ST404
with diode.
WIRING;
CRANK&RUN source was
located at the ignition. It is simply a wire that has
electricity when the key is in the run, and the crank
positions. It is recommended to use a relay that is
triggered by this wire. I have been running mine
directly off the ignition with no problems; Check
engine light, Red/green(ignition), and the
Gray/yellow(fuel relay) were all connected to the
Green/red 70' Bronco wire off the ignition. FMS says
to hook the Gray/yellow to a "run only"
source, but mine has worked fine for a year now.
CRANK; Red/light blue
wire(TFI), and White/purple(Self test input). These
were connected to the "I" terminal at
starter solenoid.
Here's the details; (From the
FMS wiring instructions)
