[BFix] Re: Crossover Conclusion-NASCAR Aluminum Radiator Size

STEPHEN NANCY GEORGE nsgeorge1 at msn.com
Tue Apr 29 09:09:40 MST 2008


How about just putting a vent/fill point at the highest point in the tube? On some of Fords newer engines they have that feature. Steve G.


Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 07:49:40 -0700From: ntsqd at yahoo.comTo: u10072 at hotmail.com; mail at broncofix.comCC: Subject: [BFix] Re: Crossover Conclusion-NASCAR Aluminum Radiator SizeI used 5/8" on each side. I also used rubber hose connectors on both ends. Partly due to lack of a 37* flaring tool that large and partly to allow for thermal growth.Were I to do it again I would very seriously look at putting the lines under the intake. By having them above the intake runners I had to crack one end of each every time I allowed the coolant level to drop too low (h2o pump replacement etc.) or they would capture air and quit doing their job. If Sched 40 forged weld elbows and pipe can be found in aluminum I would make the tube a permanent part of the intake. I would weld supports btwn the pipe and the intake if the pipe can not lay directly on the bottom of the intake. Some space with 1/8" thick stand-off supports (think vibration induced fatigue) would probably be best for not heating the intake's port floors. Push rod & lifter clearance needs to be considered too.u100 72 <u10072 at hotmail.com> wrote: 


SO,I can come to the conclusion here that tieing the rear ports of the intake to the front of the heads or the heater line that flow within the engine will dramtically increase.  Thom, what size line did you run to connect them.  I will probably use stainless hard line combined with adapters, tube nuts and sleeves. Matt


Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 12:11:41 -0700From: ntsqd at yahoo.comSubject: RE: [BFix] NASCAR Aluminum Radiator SizeTo: mail at broncofix.comCC: Those intakes that do have the feature only tie the rear of the heads together. They have no provision to flow water from the back of the heads up to the thermostat.I did not tie the rear of the heads together since I did not think that there was any advantage in doing so. Tying the back to the front made much more sense to me."Michael J. Kupec" <mkupec at blueovalcorral.com> wrote: 

Are we talking about just p[utting a cross-over between the two sides at the back of the heads, or also T-ing in a line that feed into the retirn line from the hot water heater? 
 
I've done the latter and noticed I can run a bit higher advance (about 5 degrees) with this installed. never head of just tying the two sides together. 
 

Michael J. Kupec
mkupec at blueovalcorral.com
http://www.blueovalcorral.com
 
They say that the mind is the first thing to go......
        I can't remember what the second thing is...



From: bfix-bounces at broncofix.com [mailto:bfix-bounces at broncofix.com] On Behalf Of tsSent: Monday, April 28, 2008 1:18 PMTo: EBESubject: Re: [BFix] NASCAR Aluminum Radiator Size
With the 302 in my Ranchero I had a temp gauge at both ends of the driver's side cylinder head. The temp of the coolant at the rear of the head was consistently 15*-25* warmer than the front of the head.All the cross over can do is make the temp. difference the same for both heads. There is no way that it can increase cooling to that end of the cylinder head.I then added tubes to the intake that joined the front and rear water ports of the heads. The difference dropped to under 10* and the engine become less inclined to ping under any condition.philmoulton at comcast.net wrote: 

Very true but it is a easy fix to get rid of that hot spot.
as far as flow. a clean good flowing radiator (I do like the Ron Davis one that I have- And I beleave are being sold by some of the major Bronco houses)
Also a high volume waterpump and a GOOD Radiator cap.  The easiest bang for the $ is a good Radiator cap.
 
Phil Moultoncell  503-236-0060philmoulton at comcast.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: ts 
To: u100 72 ; mail at broncofix.com 
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 6:55 AM
Subject: RE: [BFix] NASCAR Aluminum Radiator Size
Doesn't matter. All that rear cross-over CAN do is equalize the temps and coolant pressure btwn the cylinder heads. They do NOTHING for aiding in coolant flow.u100 72 <u10072 at hotmail.com> wrote: 


Where does the rear cross-over go to?


From: philmoulton at comcast.netTo: cat44 at telus.net; u10072 at hotmail.com; mail at broncofix.comSubject: Re: [BFix] NASCAR Aluminum Radiator SizeDate: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 22:24:54 -0700


 
Best thing one can do to cool a 351w is have that back crossover open. some aftermarket intakes have it open, some just have the places for drilling and tapping it and installing a crossover hose.
 
Phil Moultoncell  503-236-0060philmoulton at comcast.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Erik Christensen 
To: u100 72 ; Fix Bronco 
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: [BFix] NASCAR Aluminum Radiator Size

Spend a lot of time at 180MPH, do you?  There's not much in 'ass-car that is relevant to a 4x4, or anything else, for that matter. 
  Seriously though, as much frontal area as you can manage is a good thing. too thick, and you are not as efficient, but frontal area will always be a help if you sacrifice nothing else to gain it.
 Even more important, optimize your fan and shroud, and coolant flow. 351's are said to have an issue at the back of the heads? not sure, as I've never dealt with it first hand, but there is a cure (someone else who has dealt with this feel free to expand on this)
 
 
Erik

----- Original Message ----- 
From: u100 72 
To: Fix Bronco 
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 7:27 PM
Subject: [BFix] NASCAR Aluminum Radiator Size
Hello All,Does anyone know what the dimensions the radiators most NASCAR teams are running?  I am curious because (while I could care less about an aluminum/copper radiator debate) I am looking to put even more cooling into my truck due to the fact that I have a 351 versus the 302.  With the 302/5.0 there was never a cooling issue in the slightest like most people that run one.  After the 351/5.8 there are times that I wish I had more cooling surface especially out here in the Southwest desert climate.  What I am looking into are the 27 1/2" or 31" universal units that you find the "roundy-round" guys use. Thanks,Matt

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