putting efi on old 302

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forester2504
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putting efi on old 302

Post by forester2504 » Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:58 pm

putting efi on old 302

Can anyone who has already done this tell me how well it works? I have heard mixed results. I have a RJM wiring harness that has been made to account for the different firing order of my old 302, but I have not installed it. I want to get as much input as possible from guys that have already done this. I am going to mate an 1996 explorer intake (upper and lower) to my old 302 if it will work properly.
Thanks in advance

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SaddleUp
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Post by SaddleUp » Sat Feb 11, 2006 1:27 am

I assume you will go with the EEC IV MAF system (Mustang). If so then the Explorer intake should be ok but you will probably need to add one hole to it for the ACT sensor. Other than that is is pretty straight forward. I.E. Replace the intake and distributor, change the coil, modify the fuel system, do the wiring, and fire it up. I've done this 3 times. First was a 5.0 swap form an EFI car, then I dropped in a 5.8 in its place after changing it from SD to MAF. And then the last time we dropped the original 5.0 EFI stuff onto an old 302 in a 70 EB I gave my brother. I plan to rewire mine one more time to use an original Mustang harness instead of the hacked up Crown Vic harness in it now. (We used a stock Mustang harness in my brothers and it went together pretty well) Since your using the RJM harness it should be even easier.
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forester2504
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Post by forester2504 » Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:52 am

Yes I am going to use the EEC IV MAF and replace and modify all that is listed. How does your brother's 70 run (idle, overall)? I have heard that just switching the firing order is not enough. I have read that it is necessary to replace the cam with a cam that will change the firing order. I just want to be sure that their aren't any draw backs. (Another option is to put a newer model 5.0 motor with the explorer intakes), but that would take more money.

Thanks inadvance for your help.

Galvagni
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Post by Galvagni » Sun Feb 12, 2006 1:45 pm

I just finished a rebuilt of my original 302 with a conversion to Mass Air EFI and all-in-all, things went fairly well. The motor is up an running with a smooth idle. I haven't put any miles on it since the work because i'm replacing the rear deck and wheel wells.

Check out the list of parts that I have attached. It's a list of all the part I purchased for the engine rebuild and the EFI conversion. As you will see, this effort will part you to death.

This suggests Saddleups approach which would be to purchase a suitable donor car (89 to 93 mustang and others) which would supply maybe half the parts that I purchased separately.

As for the cam -- you will need to replace it with one having the HO firing order.

There is a lot of information out there on how to do the conversion, so boneup first and then go at it.

Good Luck

Intake Manifold E-bay $90.00
Computer, Dist. and Mass Air meter Mills Auto Parts $185.50
EFI Wire Harness RJM InjecTech $543.00
Oxygen Sensors Ford Racing Sensor Relay Kit M-12071-K302 @ SouthWest Ford $90.00
Oxygen Sensors Bungs & Welding SUM-G2990 @Summit $39.00
Low Pressure Pump Carter CRT-P4070 @ Summit $60.00
High Pressure Pump MSD-2225 @ Summit $93.00
Inertia Switch Standard FV7 @ $54.00
Barometric Sensor Motorcraft DY-541 @ AutoPartsStore.com $70.00
Intake Gasket Corteco # 23593 @ AutoPartsStore.com $3.75
Fuel Pressure Reg Sorensen 800-127 $20.00
Blockoff Plate FMS-M-9351-A302 @ Summit $6.00
Temp Sensor Advance Auto # 3461785 $19.00
Speed Control Sensor Sorensen 779-9544 @ Advance Auto $18.00
Air Charge Sensor Advance Auto # 3461785 $16.00
Ignition Coil Accel EEC-IV ACC-140012 @ Summit $40.00
Ignition Coil Bracket Ford Part No. E7ZZ12257A $12.00
Coolant Manifold Bob's Ford Parts $37.60
Air Filter KNN-RF-1035 @ Summit $46.00
Air Filter Hose NAPA $11.00
Computer Bracket Used @ Impact Auto in NY $27.00

SS Tubing SUM-220256 @Summit $30.00
Tubing - 5/16" Eastwood #49066 $31.50
Heater Fitting $12.60
Fuel Tank Jeff Bronco #10203 $390.00

EFI Total $1,554.95

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SaddleUp
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Post by SaddleUp » Sun Feb 12, 2006 3:56 pm

forester2504 wrote:Yes I am going to use the EEC IV MAF and replace and modify all that is listed. How does your brother's 70 run (idle, overall)? I have heard that just switching the firing order is not enough. I have read that it is necessary to replace the cam with a cam that will change the firing order. I just want to be sure that their aren't any draw backs. (Another option is to put a newer model 5.0 motor with the explorer intakes), but that would take more money.

Thanks inadvance for your help.
The idle is fine. When I did my original 5.0 MAF swap the motor was a standard 302 firing order. I tried the firing order on the ECM both ways and decided that it was better to leave it alone so that the O2 sensors would be checking the right cylinders. I.E. It is better to have it fire the injectors out of order than to have it measure the wrong cylinders. I couldn't really tell any difference in the idle either way anyway. Really this is not the huge issue that people make of it since the injectors fire several times during each cycle so there will always be fuel there. On trucks they don't even bother with the SEFI and instead fire an entire bank at once. Personally I wouldn't mess with the firing order on the injectors. If it was that important (which I don't think it is) then I would change the cam.
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Scodge
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Post by Scodge » Sun Feb 12, 2006 11:15 pm

Saddleup,

What exhaust solution did you use to get around the C6 in your rig? I'm planning on dropping a 5.0 efi from a '90 mustang in my '67; but it looks like the stock mustang shorties are going to run right into a frame rail and the Thorley long tubes on my current 302 won't fit around the AOD I'm planning to drop in with the motor.

By the way, how about this score. Engine and trans off ebay for $600.
Attachments
73_1.JPG
Ebay 5.0 complete... 600 bucks!
Scott
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[0===0] '67 ragtop, 5.0 EFI, PS, PDB, D44 front axle, faded blue paint and rusty floorboards.

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SaddleUp
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Post by SaddleUp » Mon Feb 13, 2006 12:06 am

Scodge wrote:Saddleup,

What exhaust solution did you use to get around the C6 in your rig? I'm planning on dropping a 5.0 efi from a '90 mustang in my '67; but it looks like the stock mustang shorties are going to run right into a frame rail and the Thorley long tubes on my current 302 won't fit around the AOD I'm planning to drop in with the motor.

By the way, how about this score. Engine and trans off ebay for $600.
If the engine is still strong then that will be a good deal. Better deals can be found but then there are worse deals as well. (FWIW, I paid $800 for the 96 F350 5.8 in mine)

For the exhaust mine runs out over the frame rails and then down the sides. This is more to get around the transfer cases though than the tranny. This works using th Mustang Shorties on the 5.8 but it will be a tight squeeze with a 5.0. Be sure to take it to a really good exhaust shop and they should be able to attach it I think. When I had my 5.0 i the passenger side dumped straight into the frame and the shop I took it to was able to fit the exhaust up to it. This was with stock 5.0 manifolds but the Mustang shorties look like they dumped in exactly the same place. Here are a fe pics of mine.
Attachments
PassExh2.jpg
PassExh1.jpg
DrvExh3.jpg
DrvExh2.jpg
DrvExh1.jpg
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Scodge
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Post by Scodge » Mon Feb 13, 2006 12:17 am

I'm pretty sure the engine is in good shape. It turns over and the oil was clean. Considering I got everything down to the serpentine belt system and the wiring harness, I feel like I got a pretty good deal. Hell, It even still has the smog pump. I'm thinking I may check the bearings and rings just in case. Mustangs tend to get run pretty hard.

It looks like, from your pics, that your rig has the exhaust pipes outside the framerails. I've never seen that before. Was there a reason for that other than making the exhaust fit?
Scott
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[0===0] '67 ragtop, 5.0 EFI, PS, PDB, D44 front axle, faded blue paint and rusty floorboards.

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SaddleUp
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Post by SaddleUp » Mon Feb 13, 2006 1:42 am

Scodge wrote:I'm pretty sure the engine is in good shape. It turns over and the oil was clean. Considering I got everything down to the serpentine belt system and the wiring harness, I feel like I got a pretty good deal. Hell, It even still has the smog pump. I'm thinking I may check the bearings and rings just in case. Mustangs tend to get run pretty hard.

It looks like, from your pics, that your rig has the exhaust pipes outside the framerails. I've never seen that before. Was there a reason for that other than making the exhaust fit?
No, initially I wanted to run it inside the frame but there just wasn't enough room to do it reasonably. Here is a pic up underneith.
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