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1974 EB Clutch Problems, Please Help

 
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utfootball10
Bfix "What's a Bronco?"
Bfix


Joined: 25 Nov 2010
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 5:00 am    Post subject: 1974 EB Clutch Problems, Please Help Reply with quote

OK, just paid to have the 302 motor rebuilt. Fellow rebuilding has an excellent reputation and the motor sounds great, has lots of compression. While he was rebuilding, I decided to change clutch while this would be much easier to do. The clutch I purchased was Perfection by Zoom and the part number at advance auto is MU2030-1. This looks identical to my old clutch with exception to the throwout baron. This baron has a lip at the opposite side of the flat plate that sticks out approximately 1/8th of an inch. My older baron looked identical without the lip. Both barons were exactly the same height. Neither throwout baron works. While installing motor back into bronco, I forgot to change the old throwout baron until we were almost through installing motor. I decided to use old baron. You can not shift gears unless the vehicle is turned off and not rolling. I then decided to drop transmission and install the new throwout baron thinking this would solve my problem. NOT!!! Dropping transmission and reinstalling is a very big job and I need some help. And yes, I've adjust tension on clutch pedal. I've loosened where pedal had lots of free play and I've adjusted where pedal had no free play ,and I've adjusted in between. The old clutch was working perfectly before the motor rebuild and the new clutch looks identical and both throwout barons are the same height. It's almost like I need another 1/4 to 1/2 inch of pedal to push. One last thing, fellow that rebuild my motor balanced the pressure plate with some engine machine he has. I hate to have to change pressure plate because it will not be able to balance it as well as his machine has done but if this means fixing the problem, so be it. Like I said, lot of work dropping the tranny. One last thing, from what I understand, this brand like almost everything else is built in China. One of the holes where pressure plate mounts was about 3/16ths off. The rest of the screws lined up perfectly. My motor man drilled out the hole so the screw would attach. Fellow helping me install the clutch things it has something to do with a defective pressure plate or the disks are just a tad to thick. Any suggestions or has any one ran into this problem.
Just had a thought, before I purchased the bronco, the previous owner raised it 2 inches. He put 2 inch lift via the front springs and put 2 inch block under leaf springs in the rear. Would this require me to get longer push rod on the clutch? I'm thinking after he raised bronco 2 inches, the disks had enough wear on them that the clutch would work and when I put new clutch kit, the disks are now to thick, just a thought. Please help.
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Scodge
BFix Locked and Loaded
BFix Locked and Loaded


Joined: 30 Mar 2005
Posts: 1159
Location: Santa Barbara

PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FYI: Throwout Bearing Wink

Your 2 inch lift shouldn't cause any problem unless there is a body lift. A suspension lift doesn't affect the distance between the body and the transmission.

It sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging at all, which might have to do with the adjusting rod, although it sounds like you covered that. It could be that your clutch fork is improperly installed and isn't disengaging the clutch. If the pivot point on the fork isn't secure, it will pivot on the throwout bearing instead of separating the clutch plates. You should also check your equalizer bar, and replace the bushings in there to eliminate play between the equalizer and the plate it mounts to. I've actually had an equalizer bar break from metal fatigue and rust. It was an easy fix, but hard to track down, because you need to look over the whole system while someone else pushed the clutch down.

It sounds like you have a very nice engine, but either the wrong bearing or one of the other problems I brought up. However, I'm not a transmission expert, I've only ever done one installation, and there are other guys here that have done many. I'm sure someone else will buck up with other alternatives.

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[0===0] '67 ragtop, 5.0 EFI, PS, PDB, D44 front axle, faded blue paint and rusty floorboards.
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SHAWN
BFix Locked and Loaded
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Joined: 13 Nov 2005
Posts: 1613
Location: Sandy, OR

PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure the pilot bearing (in the end of the crank) isn't all jscked up. If the input shaft of the trans wont spin in the crank at a different speed when the clutch pedal is depressed, it will do the same thing.

Shawn.
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Stan
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Joined: 29 Jun 2004
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Location: Boring Or

PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya - " what those guys said".
I got a little lost there - you said the clutch looked the
same - was that the clutch disk or the pressure plate or both ?
Is the pressure plate the same type you had before ? I mean 3 finger or the diaphram style? I put the diaphram style in both Broncos and they feel smoother and are supposed to hold better the more they wear BUT I've had trouble getting both to feel or disengage where/how I want.
So maybe just clutch adjustment is you're problem. How far can you move the "fork arm" back and forth before the throw out bearing touches the fingers on the pressure plate? I think mine is in the 1/4"
neighborhood.
Stan

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utfootball10
Bfix "What's a Bronco?"
Bfix


Joined: 25 Nov 2010
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 3:05 am    Post subject: Fixed it Reply with quote

Turns out it was a defective pressure plate. Should have suspected it when one of the holes was about 3/16 of an inch from matching the flywheel. China! Anyway, another new one fixed the problem,
Thanks for the help
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