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Power break boosters

 
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724x4bronco
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Joined: 05 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:54 am    Post subject: Power break boosters Reply with quote

I was wondering what break boosters I can use off of some later model fords. I'm not really concerned with fenderwell modification. Any info helps thanks
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DirtDonk
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good question. Since you're not concerned about modding the fender, then you might be pulling from a much wider pool of vehicles. Maybe. You still have to worry about valve cover clearance of course.
Since you're asking for later model vehicles specifically, are you wondering more about price new, or ease of finding in the junkyards?
Are you running a stock power setup now? Or are you converting?

If converting from manual brakes, I'm not aware of any other vehicle, newer OR older, that had the same cantilever mounting brackets to aim the assembly towards the fender. Some older full-size vans had a bracket, but it pointed the booster a full 90 toward the fender. Definitely need a small booster at that point.
I don't know which vehicles the smaller boosters came from and most of the newer ones I've seen either have VERY large boosters, or a variation on the hydroboost theme. The EB was pretty unique in that regard. Some Mustang II cars had small boosters if I remember, but they were not exactly the same. And obviously, they don't fit into your "later model" category either!
I'm sure someone will have a larger list, but as for small boosters in general, they were not very common. I think that's still the case, but honestly have not been able to spend that much time under other hoods at the junkyards in the past few years either.

As far as bolt-pattern goes though, I'm thinking that "most" Ford systems of that vintage at least used the same mounting flange size for the master cylinder. Or, if you're going to be upgrading to discs too at some point (especially 4-wheel discs), you could broaden your search to GM vehicles and then use one of the disc brake master cylinders from the same vintage GM with 4-wheel discs.
If it comes to later model stuff, to make one fit I'm thinking you're going to be upgrading everything from the mounting holes to the master cylinder. Not quite a bolt-n-go proposition.

We carry two different vacuum booster units here. One is a direct-fit for the original hardware (#3055) and the second is a similarly sized and priced unit to fit our bracketry and master cylinder.
So they do exist. It's just harder to find them used and in original EB sizes.

Good luck. Hopefully someone with more search-knowledge will chime in with some useful update info.

Paul

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'71 Bronco - 302 4v
3.5" WH/Skyjacker Lift
33 x 11.50 x15 Thornbirds on 15x7 Enkei's
Kayline soft top
Hanson bumpers
Dual batteries, Large 1G alt.

WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM Mr. Green
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724x4bronco
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya im defintly looking to upgrade to front disks in the near future but as im sure alot of guys now when your restoring something you kind of have to use the money resorcefully lol but ya i shouldnt of said late model because i meant just any booster in genral, but still easy to find in the junk yard. But if your saying that basicly all the mounting holes are the same and everything will work mechanicly than cosmeticly it'll just take a little enginuity.
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Scodge
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd save yourself from frustration and do the disk brake conversion first. You can absolutely use disk brakes without a power booster, and your braking will be much stronger and more reliable. If you add a booster to drum brakes, you'll have to set them very often and precisely, because the drum brakes aren't self adjusting. So, that weird pull you get from left to right in a panic stop will get way worse if you do the power booster first. As for donor vehicles, the EB is pretty unique when it comes to power booster placement. I've never heard of another vehicle that has the same type of bracket. The problem you run into with straight boosters is that the booster will hit the valve covers. the easiest and cheapest thing you can do is get one from one of the Bronco vendors. They've figured out all the stuff you need to know already.
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[0===0] '67 ragtop, 5.0 EFI, PS, PDB, D44 front axle, faded blue paint and rusty floorboards.
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Tom Dummer
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definition of break:
Separate or cause to separate into pieces as a result of a blow, shock, or strain: "the rope broke with a loud snap".

Definition of brake:
1.A device for slowing or stopping a moving vehicle, typically by applying pressure to the wheels.

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724x4bronco
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya the vendor bought option was what I was most likely the route I was going to go with. I just wanted to see if there were anyother things you guys have done, that was mabey a little bit better BRAKE wise and mabey a little bit cheaper.
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DirtDonk
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

x2 about manual brakes. I went with the Ford conversion and kept my stock '71 master setup and it worked flawlessly for years of daily-driving duties and many long trips.
That said, seems to me that most people these days end up with power assist anyway, but manual is still workable and having the disc setup is so much better than the drums when it comes to reliability and lack of maintenance.
Not to mention fade-resistance. Which is really what I mean before, when I said "reliability" I guess. My drums always worked well, and stopped straight and true. But I spent many an evening after work and a weekend fiddling with them and keeping them in perfect shape and adjustment.
It wasn't until they faded catastrophically on my way downhill on the highway into Death Valley that I decided that discs were the ONLY way to go.

Good luck either way. And take measurements anyway. Don't assume I'm right and that all Fords used the same bolting patterns. A LOT of them did, but I'm sure that, this being the real world and all, they can't have all been the same.

Paul

_________________
'71 Bronco - 302 4v
3.5" WH/Skyjacker Lift
33 x 11.50 x15 Thornbirds on 15x7 Enkei's
Kayline soft top
Hanson bumpers
Dual batteries, Large 1G alt.

WWW.WILDHORSES4X4.COM Mr. Green
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BroncoDave
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disk breaks front/rear, no power, I can lock um up. I used a stock MC for a 76/77 Bronco and pulled the residual pressure valve when I upgraded to rear disc, but you can find a MC that was made for dual disc.
Originally I went with a camper special MC, big piston. I had to stand on the petal just to hold my Bronco on a hill side, horrible for wheeling.
Just keep in mind, small bore MC piston is easier to push but has a longer travel, big bore MC will have shorter petal travel but takes more muscle or power assist.

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724x4bronco
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya i see what you guys are saying . There are tons of options i just have to find what i think will work the best for me. Brakes are pretty important and i hear of all thse horror storys of dudes brakes failing like paul was saying, and i just dont want that to happen to me lol. But for now i think i might try and save up some coin and get the disc brake conversion first...this was something that was always in the back of my mind that just kept me wondering but you guys have really cleared things up. Thanks alot!
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Scodge
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not that expensive, and doing the conversion is easier then doing a brake job on a set of front drums. You can source almost all the parts new, and there is tons of information online that includes part numbers and instructions.
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724x4bronco
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you buy the disk brake conversion kit its like 800 bucks plus shipping and ya there is tons of info out on the internet
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